How to Spend 2 Days in Sarlat, France: A Slow Travel Guide to Dordogne’s Most Charming Town
If you’re planning a trip to France’s Dordogne region, there’s a good chance you’ll come across Sarlat-la-Canéda.
You may even wonder whether it’s worth staying beyond a short visit.
After spending time wandering its medieval lanes and sipping wine in hidden squares, my advice is simple:
Spend at least 2 days in Sarlat.
Sarlat isn’t the kind of place that reveals itself in a rushed afternoon. It’s a town best experienced slowly, with plenty of time for aimless wandering.
Wondering what to do in Sarlat?
Here’s how I’d spend two days in Sarlat, including the best things to do in Sarlat, where to stay and my Sarlat restaurant suggestions.
Why Stay in Sarlat?
Le Badaud de Sarlat overlooking Place de la Liberté
Sarlat is one of those rare places that works equally well as a destination and as a base.
The town itself easily deserves two days of slow exploration. Between the medieval streets, bustling market, excellent food scene, and atmospheric evenings, there are plenty of things to do in Sarlat.
But what makes Sarlat especially appealing is its location in the heart of the Dordogne.
Within a short drive, you’ll find some of France’s most beautiful villages, dramatic castles perched above the Dordogne River, prehistoric caves, scenic gardens, and countless opportunities to enjoy the region’s famous food and wine.
That’s why many travelers choose to stay in Sarlat for four to seven nights. You can spend your mornings exploring nearby attractions and your evenings returning to Sarlat’s lively cafés, restaurants, and medieval streets.
If you’re planning a Dordogne road trip, Sarlat is one of the best places to base yourself.
You may also like: The Prettiest Villages in the Dordogne
Things to do in Sarlat
Day 1: Get Lost in Medieval Sarlat
Start With the Saturday or Wednesday Market
If your visit coincides with market day, start here.
Sarlat-la-Canéda market days are on Wednesday mornings and Saturdays. The historic centre transforms into one giant open-air market. It’s filled with local producers selling cheeses, walnuts, truffles, foie gras, pastries, fruit, and wine.
Even if you’re not shopping, it’s one of the best ways to experience local life.
Unlike many markets that exist mainly for tourists, this is still where locals come to buy their groceries.
You can even take a market tour with tastings of the local specialties.
Bring an appetite.
Wander Without a Plan
Normally, I’m all for having a plan.
Sarlat is the exception.
One of the best things to do in Sarlat is simply wandering.
Follow narrow alleyways that twist between medieval buildings. Peek into hidden courtyards. Duck through stone archways. Admire carved doorways and Renaissance windows.
You will get lost.
That’s part of the fun.
The old town is compact enough that you’ll always find your way back eventually.
Admire the Architecture
Sarlat has one of the largest concentrations of medieval buildings in Europe.
The town’s distinctive golden limestone glows in the sunlight, giving the entire old centre a warm, almost cinematic quality.
Keep an eye out for:
- The Cathedral Saint-Sacerdos de Sarlat – gothic church dating back to the 12th century. It’s free to visit outside of service hours.
- The Lantern of the Dead (Lanterne des Morts) – This unusual 12th-century building looks like a gherkin but actually has more serious beginnings. It was thought to mark a cemetary.
- Place de la Liberté
- The former mansions of wealthy merchants and nobles
Consider a one-hour guided walking tour to get the stories behind these historic streets and buildings.
Every street seems more photogenic than the last.
Lantern des Morts on the right
Bliss Moment: Settle Into a Café
A bliss moment in Sarlat is sitting at a small café tucked just off the main squares—somewhere quiet enough that you hear cutlery on plates and footsteps on cobblestones instead of crowds.
The best spots aren’t necessarily the big terrace cafés in Place de la Liberté. They’re the smaller ones a street or two away, especially in the early morning or late afternoon when the light softens and the old town slows right down.
Order a coffee or a glass of local wine. Sit outside. Stay longer than planned. That’s the rhythm of Sarlat.
Get a birds-eye view
Take the Ascenseur Panoramique,a glass elevator located inside the old Sainte-Marie church up to the bell tower for sweeping views of the city. There’s also an indoor market inside the church.
Explore After Dark
Many visitors leave by late afternoon.
That’s a mistake.
As evening falls, the crowds thin and the town takes on a completely different atmosphere.
In Sarlat, when the sun goes down, the town lights up by gas lamps casting a warm glow. It creates one of the most romantic settings in France.
Take a leisurely walk after dinner.
You may find yourself falling for Sarlat all over again.
Day 2: Food, History, and a Taste of Dordogne
Start With a Long French Breakfast
Don’t rush.
With 2 days in Sarlat, you’ll have time to enjoy the town before day-trippers arrive.
Grab a croissant and coffee and watch Sarlat wake up. Try Maison Lissajoux for the most divine breads and pastries.
Early morning is also one of the best times for photography, if you want to avoid crowds.
Discover Sarlat’s Food Scene – Best restaurants in Sarlat and what to eat
The “Square of the Geese”
The Dordogne is famous for its gastronomy, and Sarlat sits at the heart of it all.
Local specialties include:
- Duck confit – The restaurant, Gueule & Gosier is widely considered one of the best for duck confit. You’ll need a reservation.
- Foie gras – Le Présidial is known for its traditional cuisine, including foie gras starters.
- Black truffles Try Aux 3 Sens for truffle and duck dishes.
- Walnuts
- Regional cheeses
- Bergerac wines
Consider joining a food tour or simply creating your own tasting adventure by visiting local shops and markets.
Enjoy a Long Lunch
French towns are made for lingering lunches, and Sarlat is no exception.
Find a restaurant tucked into one of the old stone buildings and sample regional specialties.
This isn’t a place for grabbing food on the run.
Take an Afternoon Excursion from Sarlat
La Roque Gageac
If you have a car, spend the afternoon exploring one of the nearby highlights:
- La Roque Gageac
- Domme
- Lascaux IV and Caves
- Château de Beynac
- Château des Milandes
- The clifftop village of Rocamadour
- The Dordogne River
One of the best things about staying in Sarlat is that many of the Dordogne’s top attractions are less than 30 minutes away.
If you aren’t driving, no worries. Given its central location, there are many excellent tours from Sarlat, such as:
Where to Stay in Sarlat
For the full experience, stay within the historic centre.
I stayed at Les Suites Sarladaises, a beautifully restored medieval building. Unfortunately, it has since closed.
If you’re looking for similar Sarlat hotels—historic, atmospheric, and right in the heart of the old town—Le Petit Manoir is the closest match.
It’s set in a beautifully restored historic building with elegant rooms, a quiet garden, and that slightly hidden-away feel that makes Sarlat so special. You’re still just steps from the medieval streets.
Check pricing and availability at Le Petit Manoir.
If you’re looking for more affordable but highly-rated and central Sarlat accommodations, try Hôtel Montaigne or La Maison du Notaire Royal.
Is 2 Days Enough in Sarlat?
If your goal is to experience Sarlat itself, two days is ideal.
You’ll have time to wander the old town, browse the market, enjoy the cafés, discover the local food scene, and experience the town both during the day and after dark.
However, many visitors choose to stay longer and use Sarlat as their base for exploring the Dordogne.
From here, it’s easy to visit some of the region’s highlights, including La Roque-Gageac, Domme, Beynac, Château des Milandes, the Dordogne River, and the famous cave sites. Returning to Sarlat each evening feels a bit like coming home to a medieval movie set.
If your itinerary allows, I’d consider spending four or five nights here. That gives you enough time to enjoy Sarlat at a relaxed pace while also exploring the surrounding countryside.
When is the best time to visit Sarlat?
Place de la Liberté, Sarlat
The best time to visit Sarlat is late spring and autumn, when the weather is warm and the medieval streets are at their most atmospheric. May, June, and September are especially lovely—good weather, fewer crowds, and a slower, more relaxed feel.
I would avoid July and August when Sarlat weather can be hot and the town crowded, especially on market days. Winter is much quieter, with a more local, lived-in feel, but some restaurants and shops may have reduced hours.
How to Get to Sarlat
The easiest way to reach Sarlat depends on your travel style.
By Car
A car offers the most flexibility and is the best option if you plan to explore the surrounding Dordogne villages and castles.
Approximate driving times:
- Bordeaux: 2 hours
- Toulouse: 3 hours
- Bergerac: 1 hour
Must-know for drivers:
Sarlat’s historic centre is pedestrian-only. You can’t drive into the old town. Instead, you’ll need to park on the ring roads that loop around it.
This part confused me at first—I ended up driving in circles trying to find my hotel.
Best advice: contact your accommodation before you arrive. Ask exactly where to park and how to reach them. Most places will give you the easiest nearby lot or drop-off point.
Once you’re parked, forget the car. Sarlat is made for walking.
By Train
Sarlat has a train station with connections through Bordeaux and other regional hubs.
While you can visit without a car, having one makes it much easier to explore nearby attractions.
By Tour
Many visitors include Sarlat as part of a Dordogne itinerary or guided tour through southwestern France.
Final Thoughts
Some places are about checking off attractions.
Sarlat is about slowing down.
Spend 2 days in Sarlat wandering its medieval streets and you’ll understand why so many travelers fall in love with it. Stay longer and use it as your base for exploring the Dordogne, and you’ll discover why it’s one of the most rewarding regions in France.
Whether you come for the markets, the food, the architecture, or simply the atmosphere, Sarlat has a way of making you want to linger just a little longer.
And really, that’s the highest compliment I can give any destination.
More Information:
Tourism Information: Dordogne Périgord Tourism, Sarlat Tourism
Accommodation: Check pricing and availability at Le Petit Manoir
Gourmet & market tour: Book the Gourmet & Market tour, with tastings here.
Pin it:
You may also like:
The Prettiest Villages in the Dordogne, France
The Gourmet Paradise in France You Must Visit
Why the New Stone Age Cave Paintings in France Are a Must-See
An area of France I’ve always wanted to visit. How easy is it to get around using transit or is a car a must?
It’s possible to get around on transit, but I would say that renting a car is strongly recommended–too many gems you can’t get to without it.
There is a train station in town, so you can get there without a car. There is canoe rental place that will pick you up from town if you want to paddle the gentle Dordogne. There is bicycle rental in town with a green line to cycle that is a paved repurposed rail bed that goes to the river and along it for a while. So, you can go several days without a car. If you decide you need one, there is a car rental agency in town. You will certainly want one to see the surrounding chateaux, gardens, and cave paintings.
Thanks so much Mark – – this is really helpful. As you say, you don’t need a car while you’re in town or to get there. But it is helpful for seeing the area, although I have some friends who did it all by cycling.
Sarlat looks like it’s straight out of a fairy tale–incredible. I love the idea of sitting in a street cafe in a such a beautiful place. Thanks for sharing such lovely images as well.
Thanks so much Heather. It really is the stuff of fairy tales!
We stayed at Les Suites Salardaises too recently and the room, building and location were fabulous. Loved Sarlat and there is so much to see and do nearby, including the amazing Lascaux cave art.
Thanks Marc! I’m so glad you enjoyed it. I agree that there is a lot to do nearby. I would love to go back!
You need to see Sarlat in September when they light the town up with candles, really quite spectacular!!
Oh wow, I would absolutely love that! Thank you!!
Amazing…….now I have to go! Thanks for such an inspiring read 💕
Thanks Wendy! I hope you get a chance to go.